Orbea has completely redesigned its Occam trail bike, boosting travel, geometry figures and updating the suspension’s kinematics to better suit trail riders. Its MyO program also allows customers to have a completely unique paintjob for no extra cost, while componentry can also be swapped out to suit individual tastes. Take full advantage of the program and you can rest assured that you’ll have a completely unique bike. The bike that almost made Tom sell his van Evil The Following MB review The previous generation Occam had two versions: a 650b Occam AM with 150mm of travel and an Occam TR, a 130mm 29er. With the introduction of the 29in Rallon enduro bike, with 160/150mm of travel, and the Oiz XC bike, which had a more trail orientated build available with 120mm of travel up front, Orbea decided to consolidate the Occam into a pure trail bike, with 140mm of travel and 29in wheels. The Occam is Orbea’s new 140mm 29er trail bike Jérémie Reuiller This follows what Orbea felt was the general trend in mountain biking over the past couple of years. Cross-country is getting gnarlier (hence the Oiz TR), and the Rallon was more successful than it imagined it would be. The Occam could, therefore, focus on what a trail bike really needs to be: capable up the climbs and very capable back down, too. Early developments of the new bike included the ‘R-Occam’, which took the Occam’s front triangle and bolted in the Rallon’s rear, with an angle-set to fine-tune the shape. This alloy mule let Orbea test various set-ups. Future developments included the use of its own 3D printers and testing facilities to help get the new bike dialled as quickly as possible. The offset link gives easy access to the shock and allows the use of a water bottle Jérémie Reuiller Orbea Occam frameset details It’s 2019, so you shouldn’t be surprised that the new Occam has a relatively long, low and slack frame. The key figures for a size Large with 140mm forks are listed below. Speccing a 150mm bike slackens the bike’s head and seat tube angles by around 0.5 degrees and lifts the bottom bracket a touch. Reach: 474mm (S –425mm, M – 450mm, XL – 500mm) Seat tube: 457mm (S – 381mm, M – 419mm, XL – 508mm) Head angle: 66 degrees Seat angle: 77 degrees Stack: 627mm Wheelbase: 1,224mm Chainstay length: 440mm Head tube: 120mm Bottom bracket height: 336mm The changes give frames that are almost one size longer in reach, yet with a seat tube roughly one size smaller for a given frame. This is definitely in line with where the market is heading: longer bikes are better suited to more aggressive riders and shorter seat tubes allow for longer dropper posts — and rarely have much significant downside. Furthermore, Orbea says that the steeper seat tubes have been put in place to help with more technical climbing. Race Face provided the majority of the cockpit on the Occam M10 we rode Jérémie Reuiller As you’ll notice, Orbea has opted for an asymmetric frame design with a spar joining seat and down tubes. This is to ensure frame stiffness was where Orbea wanted it to be. It claims it’s not too stiff, nor too bendy, and that it benchmarked it against other competitor bikes. Without the asymmetric link, the seat tube would have had to have been more curved towards the centre of the frame to get the necessary support for the rocker’s main link. This would then have an impact on the effective seat tube angle, especially for taller riders. Adding the link meant it was able to maintain the geometry it was hoping for, while also adding a bit of stiffness, and only 100g to the overall weight. Having the link joining the down and seat tubes together (rather than top and seat tube) means easier access to the shock’s controls too, apparently. In order to fit a bottle, the cage bosses are offset by 10mm to the left. The rocker link itself has received a fair amount of engineering. The two sides are joined like a splined crank. Orbea will be offering both carbon and alloy options of the bike. The carbon version has a monocoque front triangle, along with one-piece seatstays and two-piece chainstays. By minimising the number of joints in the frame, Orbea claims to reduce the resin content and therefore weight, and improve the efficiency of its construction. The medium carbon frame has a claimed weight of 2.3kg (without a shock, but painted). Orbea is also offering a lifetime warranty on the frame, with no riding quibbles. Orbea has specced bikes with a 150mm 36 up front, an ‘upgrade’ over the stock 140mm 34. Customers can make the change on Orbea’s online shop Jérémie Reuiller The hydroformed alloy frame has a highly polished finish. This not only looks better but also reduces the number of stress-risers, so performs better in fatigue testing, according to Orbea. Finishing off the frame package is a rubberised chainstay protector, with waves along its length to reduce chain noise. There is also a threaded bottom bracket, Enduro Max bearings and internal cable routing designed to minimise noise and wear. Orbea Occam suspension We tested the Occam on some pretty rowdy trails near Ainsa, Spain Jérémie Reuiller The 140mm of suspension is built around what Orbea calls its Concentric Boost platform. This is a four-bar system with the rearmost pivot placed around the rear axle. What’s neat is that the rear wheel’s axle effectively holds the rear triangle together. Remove it and the seat and chainstays can part, giving easy access to bearing swaps, as well as tool-free rear hanger replacement (the rear hanger has a finger-operated lock-ring, and keeps the seat and chainstays together when the axle is removed). Looking at its range as a whole, Orbea decided that the Occam now has a narrower customer profile and this has allowed it to give a more ‘specialised’ suspension feel. A Rekon is fitted to the rear for fast rolling in dryer conditions Jérémie Reuiller The suspension is now much more progressive through its stroke to give the supple early, supportive mid and ‘safe’ end of stroke that’s so often asked for in a trail bike. With higher leverage ratios on the shock through the linkage, the Occam runs on lower shock pressures, which Orbea says reduces friction and therefore improves feel. The Fox DPX2 and DPS shocks come with a 0.2cc volume spacer fitted as standard, but the bike arrives with a 0.4cc spacer for more aggressive riders, and Orbea says the bike will also perform nicely without any spacers if you’re into the more ‘XC’ aspect of trail riding. Finally, Orbea has increased the anti-squat figures on this single-ring only bike to give a more stable pedalling platform and reduced the anti-rise figures, meaning the bike remains more active under braking — which is helped by placing the brake caliper on the seatstays. Orbea MyO program Orbea’s MyO program gives a multitude of customisation options for higher level models in its lineup. Orbea has long offered the opportunity to alter the spec on your bike; for example, the bikes we rode had a 150mm Fox 36 plugged in up front, rather than the stock 140mm 34 fork. It’s also possible to change things such as stem length and bar width, alter the tyre choice, brakes and shock too. These have an at-cost upcharge and the bikes are effectively built to order at Orbea’s own facilities. Orbea has specced the Shimano i-Spec dropper lever to actuate its own branded dropper post Jérémie Reuiller The more ‘exciting’ aspect of MyO is the ability to change the colour of the frame, with no additional cost. On its site, there’s a ‘builder’ function that gives you various colour options for a range of the frame’s design. These include the main frame colour, the secondary frame colour, the Orbea logo and Occam logo, and a couple of other small touches. On top of this, you can also have your name (or any other phrase) put on the seatstays. While the Occam page wasn’t live while we wrote this, we did some quick maths with the Rallon’s MyO builder and reckon on colours alone there are just over 34 million options. Orbea Occam 2020 model specs and pricing Orbea is offering eight models of the Occam: four carbon, four alloy, all eligible for the MyO program. A Shimano 12 speed shifter — the first we had a chance to ride Jérémie Reuiller Orbea Occam M-LTD £6,599 / €7,599 / $7,999 This top-end model comes with the carbon frame, Fox Factory 150mm 36 fork and DPX2 shock, a Shimano XTR groupset with RaceFace Next R chainset and XTR brakes. DT Swiss’ XMC 1200 Spline carbon wheels are shod in 2.5in Maxxis High Roller II tyres. Orbea Occam M10 £4,399 / €4,999 / $5,499 This bike comes with a 140mm Fox 34 and DPX2 shock, both Factory level. There’s a Shimano XT groupset and brakes, with a RaceFace finishing kit. The wheels are a set of DT Swiss XM 1650, which are custom made for Orbea — effectively the rim from the XM 1501 wheelset with a slightly cheaper hub. DT Swiss made some wheels especially for Orbea — the XM 1650 Jérémie Reuiller Orbea Occam M30-Eagle £3,299 / €3,799 / $3,999 Factory is replaced by Performance level suspension on this version, and it’s a DPS shock rather than DPX2, while there’s a SRAM NX Eagle groupset combined with Shimano BR520 brakes. DT Swiss M1900 Spline wheels support the same High Roller II tyres as above. Orbea Occam M30 £3,299 / €3,799 / $3,999 The build of this model is nigh-on identical to the M30-Eagle, but you get a Shimano XT/SLX drivetrain instead. Orbea Occam H10 £2,899 / €3,299 / $3,499 The H10 is the top-level alloy Occam for 2020. It comes with Performance level Fox 34 and DPS suspension, DT Swiss M1900 Spline wheels and High Roller II tyres, and an XT/SLX mix 12-speed drivetrain. Shimano’s 12-speed shifting was impressive Jérémie Reuiller Orbea Occam H20 £2,499 / €2,799 / $2,999 Price savings largely come from the finishing kit and Mach1 Maxx 25c wheels here because you still get a 12-speed Shimano SLX drivetrain. Orbea Occam H20-Eagle £2,499 / €2,799 / $2,999 As you’d expect, this is the same spec as the H20 above, but with a SRAM NX Eagle drivetrain rather than the Shimano kit. Orbea Occam H30 £1,999 / €2,299 / $ N/A The entry-level Occam hits the £2,000 marker but isn’t available in the US. Marzocchi’s Bomber Z2 keeps the price down, as does the shift to a SunRace 11-51t 12-speed cassette, joining Shimano SLX shifting gear. You also get a lower specced Shimano brake, but many of the components are the same as much higher-level bikes — this looks like great value for money.
Knowing how to repair a puncture is an essential skill that every cyclist needs to master. It can be daunting for the inexperienced, but only takes a few minutes once you know what you’re doing. In the following guide and videos below, we’ll talk you though how to repair a punctured inner tube on either a road or mountain bike in a simple, step-by-step walkthrough guide. Celebrate this year’s Bike Week by getting out on your bike from 8–16 June. Cycling UK wants to get even more people riding this year and you’ll find plenty of advice on BikeRadar if you’re new to cycling or need help deciding which bike to buy or how to fix a puncture! Share your rides with the hashtags #BikeWeekUK #7DaysofCycling. We talk you through how to repair a puncture on a mountain bike The process for fixing a puncture on a road bike can be slightly different How to inflate a bicycle tyre 1. How to find the puncture Using the valve as your starting point, closely inspect the tread of the tyre to ﬁnd the cause of the puncture. Also pay attention to the sidewalls (the non-treaded portion on the side of the tyre) to make sure there are no tears or holes. Remove any glass, grit or other debris that you spot. Even if you ﬁnd one possible cause, continue checking the tyre until you get back to the valve because there may be more. 2. How to remove an inner tube Let the air out of the inner tube and push the valve up into the tyre, unscrewing and retaining the valve lockring if ﬁtted. Use a second lever, roughly 5cm away from the first, to begin to pop the bead off the rim BikeRadar On the side of the wheel opposite the valve, slip a tyre lever under the tyre’s bead and a further tyre lever, about roughly 5cm away. Run the lever around the tyre to free one side BikeRadar Pull the nearer tyre lever towards you, lifting the tyre’s bead over the edge of the rim. Continue until one bead of the tyre is completely free of the rim then pull the tube out. Remove the tyre completely from the rim — with most tyres this can be done by hand unless exceptionally tight. 3. How to find the puncture on an inner tube Inflate the punctured tube and rotate it around close to your face to find the hole BikeRadar Inﬂate the tube and listen for air escaping. If you’re struggling to find the hole by listening alone, try passing your lips over the top of the tube. If the hole still can’t be found, re-inﬂate the tube and pass it through a bowl of water until you spot escaping bubbles. Be sure to dry the tube before proceeding to the next step. The Puncture Finder will… find your puncture 4. How to prepare an inner tube for patching Select an appropriately sized patch — if in doubt, err on the side of caution and use a bigger rather than smaller patch. Sand down the area around the hole to aid adhesion BikeRadar Roughen the surface of the tube around the hole with sandpaper (usually included with any good puncture repair kit). Ensure that any moulding marks on the tube are completely flattened down as these can cause issues when gluing. Thoroughly brush off any rubber ‘shavings’. If you’re using glueless patches, you can apply them directly after cleaning the area around the hole BikeRadar If you’re using pre-glued patches — such as Park’s GP-2 patch kit — you can now patch the hole. Thoroughly press down on the patch to ensure it’s fully in contact with the tube. If you’re using a ‘traditional’ glue-on patch kit, start by applying a generous drop of glue — or rubber cement by its proper name — to the tube and spread this across an area slightly larger than the patch you intend to use. Allow to dry. Apply a second, thinner layer similarly. Once again, allow to dry — when the glue is dry it will change from shiny to matt. Once the glue has dried to a matt finish, apply the patch Amanda Thomas The key to ensuring a good repair is patience, so don’t rush this step. 5. How to patch an inner tube Firmly press the patch into place after removing the backing foil — cleanliness is also key to a good repair, so leave this to the very last moment. Make sure the whole of the patch is in contact with the tube Amanda Thomas If there’s a thin cellophane backing on the patch, it can be left on. It’s good practice to dust any stray glue with chalk, talcum powder or fine road dust to prevent it from sticking to the tyre casing. 6. Check the casing of the tyre and rim tape Thoroughly check the casing of the tyre for any other debris that may cause another puncture Amanda Thomas Before refitting the tube, thoroughly double-triple-check the inside of the tyre casing — there’s nothing more frustrating than going to the effort of patching a tube only to puncture it again with a stray thorn you may have missed. Make sure your rim tape is secure and covering all spoke holes BikeRadar It’s also good practice to check the rim tape. If a hard plastic rim strip — often found on cheaper bikes — is torn, it leaves a sharp edge that can easily slice a tube. Likewise, if your rim tape has slipped, it can leave eyelets or spoke holes exposed, which can also puncture a tube. If you have persistent problems with your rim tape puncturing your tube, try swapping it out for a roll of good ol’ Velox cloth tape or similar. This stuff lasts forever, costs very little and can be reused if you’re so inclined. 7. How to refit the tyre After repairing the tube and thoroughly checking the tyre, reﬁt one bead to the rim. Slightly inﬂate the tube and reﬁt it to the wheel, putting the valve through its hole first. Push the tyre bead back onto the rim with your thumbs, taking care not to pinch the tube BikeRadar Starting at the opposite side of the rim to the valve, use your thumbs to lift the tyre’s bead over the rim. Work your way around the rim until there’s just one small section of tyre left. Push the valve up into the tyre and then, using your thumbs, ease the remaining section of the tyre’s bead over the edge of the rim. If the tyre is particularly tight, avoid the temptation to use a tyre lever to push the last section of the tyre onto the rim — you’ll almost certainly pinch your inner tube doing so. If you’re struggling to pop the tyre onto the wheel, try putting the tyre on the ground, holding it in place with your feet and rolling the the bead back towards you — heavy gloves really help here. This takes a little practice, but should work with even the most stubborn tyres. 8. Make final checks ‘Massage’ the tyre into the well of the rim, ensuring the tube isn’t being pinched by the bead of the tyre Amanda Thomas Check that the tube isn’t trapped between the rim and the tyre bead by working your way around the tyre, pushing the bead into the well of the rim. If the tube is trapped, try ‘massaging’ the tyre to encourage it to seat properly. Pumping it up a small amount may also help to seat the tube properly. Inflate the tyre, ensuring that it is seated evenly around the wheel BikeRadar Inﬂate the tyre to a point where it feels soft but has maintained its shape then check that the molding mark around the tyre follows the rim evenly all the way around. If not, deﬂate a little and ease any high spots down and pull low spots up until the bead is ﬁtted evenly. Inﬂate to the recommended pressure and check once again that the tyre’s bead is still seated evenly and that the tyre isn’t lifting off the rim at any point, then adjust your pressures to suit. Trail Tech: Mountain bike tyre pressure — all you need to know Fixing a puncture: useful tips When taking the tube out of the tyre, note which way the tube was around in the wheel. This will help identify the position of the hole in the tube once the position of the object in the tyre causing the puncture has been found Once you’ve located the hole in your puncture, mark it with a piece of chalk (usually included with a repair kit) so you can pinpoint it accurately later If you don’t have any sandpaper, you can try gently to roughen the tube by rubbing it against a stone or the road surface How to identify a puncture ‘Regular’ puncture Regular or ‘point’ flats are caused by debris piercing the tread of the tyre BikeRadar A ‘regular’ puncture is usually caused by debris — glass, thorns, wire, nails etc. — entering the tread of the tyre and piercing the inner tube. There’s little you can do to avoid these types of puncture beyond opting for puncture resistant tyres — while effective, these are best saved for town or commuting bikes as they tend to weigh a lot more than regular tyres and really dampen the ride quality of a bike. Those unfortunate enough to get punctures regularly may have noted that they tend to get more flats during wet weather. This is because surface water essentially acts as a lubricant, allowing anything sharp to enter the tyre more easily. Wet weather allows debris that would otherwise stay on the ground to stick to your tyre more easily too, with the rotation of the wheel slowly driving it into your tyre. Snakebite punctures Pinch flats are most often caused by running too low a pressure in your tyres BikeRadar Two small holes in a tube placed fairly close together indicate a pinch — or snakebite by its other name — puncture. This is caused by the tube getting trapped between the tyre and the rim when riding over a hard-edged object. Tyres that are not inflated enough are the most frequent cause of this. If you consistently get pinch flats, particularly on a mountain bike, it may be time to convert to tubeless. If you have a pinch flat, be sure to check that the tyre’s sidewall isn’t cut as well. How to set up tubeless tyres — video Why gravel roads made me a believer in road tubeless 6 of the best: tubeless pumps and inflators 4 tips for understanding tubeless tyre set up Rim tape or spoke puncture A hole on the inner side of the tube indicates that the puncture was caused by something around the well of the rim, usually a rough edge on a spoke hole or torn rim tape if it is made of a hard material. Check around the inside of the rim to ensure that the rim tape properly covers the spoke holes and that all spoke holes are free of swarf — if you find any sharp edges, these can usually be filed down. A less common cause of a puncture is a rough edge around the valve hole. A puncture here will occur at the base of the valve and will not be repairable. What puncture repair kit should I buy? The puncture-fixing brigade is divided into two distinct camps — those that insist on using an old-school, glue-on patch kit and those that prefer pre-glued patches. In our experience, glue-on patches are more reliable in the long run, but pre-glued patches are far, far more convenient. What you prefer to use will largely be down to personal preference and likely dictated by your temperament — is stopping for five minutes to fix a tube properly and enjoying the view an opportunity to be relished or an unwanted distraction? Park’s GP-2 patches are our favourite option BikeRadar For those that want pre glued patches, Park’s GP-2 patches are our favorite. It’s hard to find fault with Nutrak’s super-simple repair kit BikeRadar For an old-school style patch kit, it’s hard to beat the exceptionally cheap Nutrak P3 kit. Yes, it’s possible for a patch kit to be sexy Velo Vitality For those after a more Gucci patch kit — yes, such a thing exists — you can bring a bit of French charm to your saddle bag in the form of this handsome patch kit from Rustines. Whichever patch kit you buy, if it comes with one of those nasty little multi-tools that feel as though they’re made from cheese rather than metal, please put it into your nearest recycling point. Trust us when we say that they’ll do more harm than good to your bike. It’s also a good idea to pack a pair of gloves with any repair kit. Braking surfaces, particularly rim brake tracks, will make an absolute mess of your hands and nobody wants to inadvertently grab a stray patch of dog poop with bare hands. What are the best tyre levers? Pedro’s tyre levers came out on top in our grouptest BikeRadar Believe it or not, not all tyre levers are made equal. 6 of the best tyre levers Thankfully, we’ve done the hard work for you, whittling down a selection of the most options out there, with Pedro’s levers coming out on top. What is the best pump? You should never leave home without a mini pump! BikeRadar While a mini pump is a great option if you’re out on the road, do yourself a favor and get a decent track style pump for use at home — these take far less effort to use than a mini pump and will allow you to get your tyres up to much higher pressures. How to choose a bicycle pump Save yourself some serious hassle and invest in a decent track pump for use at home Jack Luke / Immediate Media We’re working on a long overdue update to our best pumps guides, so check back soon! Some riders prefer to use CO2 canisters over pumps BikeRadar If you prefer to take a CO2 inflator with you, check out our top six recommend options here; 6 of the best: CO2 inflators Weekly check-up for tyres Check your tyres for cuts in the tread, swelling in the sidewall or serious wear. Tyres with severe cuts, swelling or casing visible through the tread must be replaced. Remove any grit or glass embedded in the tread with a fine pick. Regularly check your tyre pressures with a proper gauge. Tyres inﬂated to the correct pressure will have fewer punctures and a longer life.
The 83rd Tour de Suisse is the final WorldTour stage race before the Tour de France, and kicks off this Saturday 15 June. This year’s route covers nine stages until the finish on Sunday 23 June. Read on for how to watch the action live this year. How to watch the Tour de France 2019 live Best road bikes 2019: how to choose the right one for you The 2019 Tour de Suisse Tour de Suisse 2019 Stage Plan www.tourdesuisse.ch The Tour de Suisse takes place from 15–23 June in nine stages and with 1,181km of riding. The racing will begin with an individual time trial and end on a mountainous route. The Tour de Suisse begins just as the Critérium du Dauphiné comes to an end, and this is the second chance this month to see who might be a contender for the yellow jersey come the Tour de France in July. How can I watch the Tour de Suisse 2019 live in the UK? Eurosport is showing live TV coverage of the Tour de Suisse at 11am BST every day. You can access the Eurosport calendar here. Amazon Prime subscribers can sign up to the Eurosport Player through Amazon Channels. The Eurosport channel costs £6.99 per month, while Amazon Prime is £7.99 per month but can be accessed with a 30-day free trial. If you want to access the Eurosport Player direct it’s £6.99 per month or £39.99 a year. To get access to the highlights you might also consider subscribing to the TVPlayer Premium package for just £6.99 per month, which gives you access to the Eurosport 1 and 2 channels. How can I watch the Tour de Suisse 2019 live in the US? FloBikes will be showing live coverage of the Tour de Suisse in the US and Canada. A FloBikes Pro subscription costs $12.99 per month, while a Family subscription (which allows you to stream on up to four devices) is $17.99 per month. Both options are billed as an annual payment. You can see all timings in the FloBikes live stream start times. How can I watch the Tour de Suisse 2019 live in Australia? Unfortunately, the Eurosport Player can’t be accessed in Australia, and there appears to be no coverage or highlights on the Eurosport channels. We’ll update this section if we learn more. How can I follow the Tour de Suisse 2019 if I can’t watch live coverage? You can follow live updates via the Cyclingoo app, or the Tour de Suisse Twitter feed here. Tour de Suisse 2019 schedule Below are the key stage details and timings for the race and you can also visit the Tour de Suisse official website for detailed summaries of each stage. Stage 1: Langnau–Langnau, 9.5km, 15 June Tour de Suisse 2019 Stage 1 route elevation profile www.tourdesuisse.ch Stage 2: Langnau–Langnau, 159.6km, 16 June Tour de Suisse 2019 Stage 2 route elevation profile www.tourdesuisse.ch Stage 3: Flamatt–Murten, 162.3km, 17 June Tour de Suisse 2019 Stage 3 route elevation profile www.tourdesuisse.ch Stage 4: Murten–Arlesheim, 163.9km, 18 June Tour de Suisse 2019 Stage 4 route elevation profile www.tourdesuisse.ch Stage 5: Münchenstein–Einsiedeln, 177km, 19 June Tour de Suisse 2019 Stage 5 route elevation profile www.tourdesuisse.ch Stage 6: Einsiedeln–Flumserberg, 120.2km, 20 June Tour de Suisse 2019 Stage 6 route elevation profile www.tourdesuisse.ch Stage 7: Unterterzen–Gotthard Pass, 216.6km, 21 June Tour de Suisse 2019 Stage 7 route elevation profile www.tourdesuisse.ch Stage 8: Goms–Goms, 19.2km, 22 June Tour de Suisse 2019 Stage 8 route elevation profile www.tourdesuisse.ch Stage 9: Ulrichen–Ulrichen, 144.4km, 23 June Tour de Suisse 2019 Stage 9 route elevation profile www.tourdesuisse.ch What comes next? For the moment, all that really remains is the Tour de France, which will be rolling out on 6 July and arriving at the Champs-Élysées on 28 July. After that, the final Grand Tour of the season, the Vuelta a España, will take place from 24 August until 15 September. There’s a lot more live coverage to come this summer, so stay tuned for our updates on where to follow these events live.
It’s hard to believe this was five years ago. This was from one of the Pedalfest races from May of 2014. The 2019 Pedalfest race series concludes this week. The final race of the season takes place today (Thursday, June 13th) with most of the classes starting shortly after 6 p.m. (Photo: JK/Mountain Bike Action) The post Throwback Thursday: Pedalfest Racing, 2014 appeared first on Mountain Bike Action Magazine.
In celebration of this year’s Pride Month, Strava is allowing every user to show their support for the LGBT community at large by adding colour to every ride. Dump the Strava algorithm with Stravini Best cycling apps — 16 of the best iPhone and Android apps to download If you put a rainbow emoji in the title of your ride, or #worldpride2019 in the description, the app will change your route lines into the colours of the rainbow. Pride Month takes place in June each year, and the month was chosen to commemorate the Stonewall Riots, a series of demonstrations by members of the LGBT community against a police raid that took place in New York on 28 June 1969. This year marks the 50-year anniversary of the Stonewall Riots. Currently this feature seems to be exclusive to the app, but give it a try.
The key to choosing the right commuting bike is ensuring that it is comfortable and practical for the type of riding you intend to do — you’re unlikely to commit to regularly riding to work in all conditions if it’s a chore in the first place, so we’ve put together this handy guide to help you make the right choice. Best electric bikes: road, mountain, commuting and cheap e-bikes Cheap road bikes: our pick of five of the best Should I wear underwear under padded cycling shorts? Celebrate this year’s Bike Week by getting out on your bike from 8–16 June. Cycling UK wants to get even more people riding this year and you’ll find plenty of advice on BikeRadar if you’re new to cycling or need help deciding which bike to buy or how to fix a puncture! Share your rides with the hashtags #BikeWeekUK #7DaysofCycling. What’s the best bike for commuting? What type of bike you choose to ride to work will depend on a number of factors such as journey distance, terrain, where you live and your taste in bikes. To help make your decision easier, we’ve done our best to explain how eight common types of bike fare when turned to commuting duties. It’s also worth mentioning that, with a little modification, most bikes can be made into great commuters — with the addition of full-length mudguards to ward off foul weather, some kind of luggage carrying capability and lights for year-round visibility. Your languishing, older ride may be a prime candidate for resurrection as a commuter Looking for suggestions for lights, mudguards, jackets and other commuting tips and tricks? Check out our other best list recommendations: Best mudguards/fenders: a buyer’s guide 6 of the best: rear lights The best bike lights for road cycling Best waterproof jackets for cyclists Hybrid / flat-bar bikes: the best all-round commuting bike Hybrid bikes are a very popular choice for bike commuters, thanks to their versatility Oliver Woodman / Immediate Media Best hybrid bikes: a buyer’s guide to find what you need Hybrids are best thought of as a hardy road bike that takes some influence from mountain bikes, borrowing its off-road cousin’s flat handlebars and a more upright, traffic and comfort-friendly position. Like a road bike, most modern hybrids are usually built around 700c wheels. However, the tyres are often wider than a road bike’s — but usually not as wide as a mountain bike — allowing you to traverse rough roads and gravel paths with ease. Most hybrids are built with a rigid fork, but some are also sold with cheaper suspension forks. While the idea of suspension may seem appealing, be wary as most models are equipped with low-end forks that are heavy and tend to add little to the comfort of the bike. Cheaper hybrids will usually come with rim brakes, with more expensive models equipped with disc brakes. Disc brakes offer more powerful, predictable and reliable braking — regardless of the weather — than rim brakes and are definitely something you should look out for. Road disc brakes: everything you need to know Hybrid bikes also offer almost unrivalled versatility, with many bikes bristling with bosses and mounts for every accessory imaginable. This makes them an ideal candidate for conversion to other duties, such as touring. It’s also worth looking out for hybrids — such as the Cube Travel SL — that include accessories as part of the bike package. Adding on mudguards, a rack and lights can add considerable cost, and these packages often present far better value for money than upgrading a ‘naked’ bike. If you are a beginner looking for a bike for general use or are a dedicated commuter that favours an upright position in traffic, a flat-bar hybrid is likely to be the perfect choice for you. Pros: Fairly quick, hugely versatile, confidence inspiring upright position Cons: Not the lightest or most comfortable bike for longer distances Budget: Carrera Subway 2, £350 (unavailable outside UK) Sensible: Cube Travel SL hybrid £1,149, international pricing TBC Luxury: Specialized Sirrus Expert Carbon, £1,859 / $2,100 / AU$2,400 Why not work in a workout during your commute? Electric bikes: best if you need a hand up the hills Electric bikes, or e-bikes, can make your ride much easier, but at the cost of more weight and money Oliver Woodman / Immediate Media The best electric bikes: road, mountain, commuting and cheap e-bikes As technology has matured and their adoption has become widespread — particularly in Europe — there’s absolutely no denying that electric bikes have become an increasingly dominant force in the cycling market. Can electric bikes save the bike industry? While the proponents and haters of e-bikes will forever more debate whether or not they have a place in the cycling world, we at BikeRadar are big fans of them — not only do they open cycling up to a more broad audience, but they also allow more experienced cyclists to cover far greater distances than would otherwise be possible. This ability to cover ground easily really comes into its own when turned to your commute; with the helping hand that an electric assist e-bike affords — assist being the key word here — it allows those that live out of town to consider riding long distances to work, even with a heavy load. Electric bike power: throttle vs pedal-assist We highlight the word assist because one of the great misconceptions surrounding electric bikes is that they do all the work for you — this is not the case. You still have to pedal on an e-bike and will invariably tire yourself out riding one, you’ll just do it over a far greater distance than on a regular bike. Of course, there’s a weight and price penalty to pay with an e-bike, but the technology that powers them is becoming ever more accessible. Shimano STEPS: components explained While we don’t want to speculate too much, we can totally foresee modern, ultra-reliable e-bikes becoming a truly viable car alternative in years to come. With that in mind, for those that live far away from work, it’s definitely worth considering whether ditching the car — and the associated cost of running one — and investing in an electric bike is a viable option. Pros: Possible to cover great distances, even when loaded, very efficient, a true car alternative Cons: Heavy, must be recharged, expensive (for now) Budget: B’Twin Elops 500, £650, international pricing TBC Buy the B’Twin Elops 500 now from Decathlon Sensible: Gtech eBike Sports, £995, international pricing TBC Buy the eBike Sports direct from Gtech Luxury: BMC Alpenchallenge AMP City LTD, £5,600 / $5,999 / AU$N/A Folding bikes: best if your commute involves public transport Folding bikes are brilliant for those who need to take a train or bus as part of their commute Oli Woodman / Immediate Media Best folding bike: a buyer’s guide Most often built around diminutive 16in or 20in wheels, folding bikes — as the name suggests — fold down into often impressively small packages that can be stored just about anywhere at either end of your journey. Folding bikes are also ideal for those that don’t intend to ride the entire way to work and plan on completing part of the journey by public transport — or, if you prefer the trendy word of the moment, go ‘multimodal’. A folding bike won’t handle like a regular bike due to its use of small wheels and the inevitable compromise that creating a packable bike demands. They also tend to feel pretty sluggish on the road, but how likely is it that you’ll be regularly razzing around the streets at full gas during rush hour on a folding bike anyway? While some folding bikes are built around larger wheels, they don’t fold down nearly as compact as their small-wheeled brethren, so some trains and buses won’t accept them, making these only really useful when space is a premium at home or work. The undoubted market leader here is Brompton, with an incredibly clever design that has become something of a modern classic. That said, there are lots of interesting options from other manufacturers too, such as Tern. Brompton S2L review Brompton Electric first ride review If convenience, easy storage and the ability to travel on public transport trumps all, a folder is likely the right choice for you. Pros: Incredibly convenient to store and travel with Cons: Not as spritely, confidence inspiring or comfortable as a ‘full-sized’ bike Budget: Tern Link B7, £550 / $N/A / AU$850 Sensible: Brompton S2L, £980 / $1,300 / AU$2,000 Buy the Brompton S2L now from Tredz Luxury: Airnimal Chameleon , £2,499, international pricing TBC Buy the Airnimal Chameleon Sport now from Airnimal Folding Bikes Town bikes: best for hassle-free, day-to-day riding Town bikes, like this Pashley, are an excellent (if heavy) option for urbanites Oli Woodman / Immediate Media Often referred to as Dutch or sit-up-and-beg bikes, town bikes come in all shapes and sizes, but are generally characterised by an upright riding position and oodles of practical accessories. Town bikes are also generally very heavy. Practicality is the key focus here, with stout, abuse-proof frames and components that are designed to last almost indefinitely over featherweight, speed-focused performance. The heft and upright position of a town bike can make for a pretty slow ride. These bikes are also usually outfitted with an internal gear hub drivetrain with a limited range, making them a bit of a nightmare to get up hills. For what they lack in range, however, they more than make up for in fit-and-forget practicality. Usually outfitted with full-length mudguards, chainguards, racks or baskets and often even integrated dynamo lighting, town bikes are as practical as it gets, offering true hop-on-and-go convenience that could even go some ways to replacing a car in an urban environment. If you live in a flat-ish area and fancy schlepping baguettes, kids and groceries in the utmost of leisurely style, a town bike may be the ideal option for you. Pros: Relaxed riding position, eminently practical, perfect for the maintenance-phobic Cons: Damn heavy, not the easiest on the hills, often not that cheap or the easiest to work on Budget: Elephant Bike, from £250 (refurbished), international pricing TBC Buy the Elephant Bike now from Elephant Bike Sensible: Pendleton Ashwell, £320, international pricing TBC Luxury: Pashley Roadster, £775 (5-speed) / £875 (8-speed), international pricing TBC Fixed gear/singlespeed bikes: best if you hate maintenance Fixed gear bikes, or ‘fixies’, are a great low-maintenance option Jack Luke / Immediate Media Long adored by hip urbanites, the classic fixie/singlespeed bike continues to attract devotees in every corner of the world. Goading aside, the appeal of a singlespeed bike is totally understandable. With no multi-gear drivetrain to worry about, fixies and singlespeed bikes offer a largely fuss- and maintenance-free ride that’s ideal for commuting. It’s also worth clarifying that a fixie has no freewheel; if you’re moving, you’re pedalling. Riding a fixie for the first time is an incredibly odd sensation that will no-doubt result in a spill at some point, so probably isn’t the most suitable for beginners. How to master a fixed gear bike Luckily, most singlespeed bikes come in a ‘flip-flop’ arrangement, with one side of the rear wheel being set up with a screw-on freewheel and the other a fixed cog. Our advice is to try out the free-coasting side first. Some riders choose to ride fixies without brakes (as is done in track racing), but be aware that — at least in the UK — it is illegal to do so. A bike must have at least two braking systems (the fixed rear wheel counts as one brake), so make sure you stay on the right side of the law. With only one gear, riding a singlespeed bike in a hilly location can be challenging, so think carefully before buying. If you’re after an easy to maintain ride and you don’t mind mashing a hard gear, a singlespeed or fixie may be the perfect commuting choice for you. Pros: Incredibly simple, often good value for money Cons: Potentially unpleasant in hilly areas, not very adaptable, high risk of being labelled as a hipster Budget: State Core-Line, £299 / $299 / AU$N/A Buy the State Core-Line direct Sensible: Genesis Flyer, £750 / €879,19 / $N/A / AU$N/A Luxury: Specialized Allez Sprint track, £1,300 / AU$2,620 Road bikes: best if you’re riding a long distance on roads Road bikes are fast, but best suited to smooth terrain Russel Burton / Immediate Media Buyer’s guide to road bikes For those that plan on travelling longer distance, road bikes can make a great commuter. Best suited for use on tarmac, road bikes are the best way to ride long distances fast. However, a road bike subjected to constant abuse from potholes, poor weather and rough terrain will inevitably deteriorate quicker than a hardier bike. But given appropriate care and regular maintenance, it will, of course, last for years. You’re unlikely to want to spend a fortune on a road bike dedicated to commuting — even bikes as cheap as the £600 mark can make great and dependable rides — but just make sure that whatever you choose has mudguard eyelets, a dependable groupset and a strong, high spoke count wheelset. Road bike groupsets: everything you need to know Buyer’s guide to road bike wheels While carbon will offer the lightest and stiffest ride possible, value for money — which a cheaper alloy or steel bike may offer — and longevity should be your primary concerns. If you do decide to go for a carbon bike, greater care should also be taken when locking it up. This is why it’s time to stop buying cheap carbon bikes We destroyed £11,000 of locks to find out which was the best On the subject of locks, it’s worth noting that thieves really do love a road bike, so invest in a chunky and dependable lock that will save on stress and potential heartbreak in the long run. Remember that if you opt for a particularly bulky lock you can always leave it attached to your bike rack at work. The best bike locks Finally, most road bikes will come with lightweight and fast rolling tyres. While these will feel great on a fast Sunday ride, they’re likely to be far more puncture-prone than a sturdier tyre, and you’ll probably want to swap them out for commuting. Buyers guide to winter road bike tyres Pros: Quick, efficient, great fun Cons: Not the sturdiest Budget: Triban RC 500 Disc, £530, international pricing TBC Buy the Triban RC 500 Disc now from Decathlon Cheap road bikes: our pick of the best under £600 Sensible: Canyon Endurace AL 6.0, £799 (unavailable outside the UK) Buy the Canyon Endurace AL 6.0 now from Canyon Best road bikes under £1,000 Luxury: Specialized Roubaix Comp, £3,100 / $3,400 / AU$4,500 Best road bikes under £2,500 Gravel/adventure/cyclocross bikes: best if you want to ride far on bad roads Gravel bikes, such as this £550 Voodoo Nikasi, are getting ever more affordable Jack Luke / Immediate Media Best gravel and adventure road bikes The best cyclocross bikes A gravel, adventure, cyclocross, #groad or whatever else you want to call it bike, is best thought of as a road bike with some changes that make it more suitable and comfortable for off-road usage. Primarily, clearances are improved so that chunkier tyres may be fitted, smoothing out the ride on broken surfaces. The wheelbase of a gravel bike is also often considerably longer than a road bike, with the head angle also often slackened in a bid to ease handling in rougher terrain. Most gravel bikes are outfitted with disc brakes, with only a few now available with cantilever or v-brakes. Gravel bikes are designed with versatility in mind, with most having provisions to mount mudguards, racks and multiple bottle cages. Combined with a road-like fit, these bikes make excellent commuters for those who have to contend with poor roads or even light off-road detours. Dedicated cyclocross bikes tend to lack these commuter-friendly provisions and also usually feature a more aggressive fit than their all-road minded cousins, but still make great commuters with some modifications. Pros: Incredibly adaptable with a fast and comfortable ride Cons: Not as quick on tarmac as a road bike, but more suitable for commuting overall Budget: Voodoo Nakisi, £550 (unavailable outside UK) Sensible: Genesis Datum 20, £2,399.99 / AU$4,675 Luxury: 3T Exploro, £3,950–£5,800 / $2,999–$6,800 Mountain bikes: best if you commute on truly rough terrain Mountain bikes are great for those that plan on tackling rough terrain Steve Behr / Immediate Media Buyer’s guide to mountain bikes The upright riding position and sturdy nature of a mountain bike has long made it a popular choice for commuters. While a mountain bike’s stock knobbly tyres are great if your commute follows an off-road route, they will add a considerable amount of drag when riding in town. If you plan on using a mountain bike solely for commuting, we’d recommend that you fit slick tyres to unleash its full potential. We would also recommend that you steer clear of full-suspension mountain bikes if your main aim is commuting — you’ll just be paying for a load of technology that you’ll never use. Instead, look for a cross-country bike — even one that’s fully rigid — and as with everything else, ensure it has all the mounts you need to make the bike more commuting friendly. Pros: Upright riding position, super durable Cons: Heavier than other options, slow on tarmac, not the most versatile Budget: Voodoo Hoodoo, £550, (not available outside of the UK) The best mountain bikes under £500 Sensible: Specialized Chisel Comp X1, £1,500 / $1,620 / AU$2,000 Best mountain bikes under £1,000 Luxury: Genesis Mantle 30, £3,600 / $TBC / AU$TBC The best mountain bikes under £2,000 This article was last updated June 2019
The OVO Women’s Tour is one of the most popular pro women’s races on the calender. It promises the pinnacle of women’s road racing, big names and a thrilling route lined with spectators. Taking place from 10–15 June, stages are raced across the south of England and Wales, and include a Dutch-style road race called a kermesse in Kent’s Cyclopark. Best women’s road bikes of 2019, tried and tested Canyon//SRAM showcases the 2019 Rapha Women’s 100 kit The 2018 edition of the race attracted 291,000 spectators along the route, plus 1.2 million per day on the ITV4 coverage (excluding catch-up viewing). The Women’s Tour launched as a new event in 2014, and has proved popular with fans and riders alike. Marianne Vos won the inaugural edition, and since then the event has seen a different rider win each year: Lisa Brennauer (2015), Lizzie Deignan (2016), Kasia Niewiadoma (2017) and Coryn Rivera (2018). The 2019 OVO Women’s Tour This year, you’ll be able to follow those riders again, as well as Ellen van Dijk and Chloe Hosking, all of whom are placed in the current top 15 riders in the UCI. They’ll be fighting it out for stage wins, jerseys and overall victory. 16 teams are participating this year, representing the cream of pro-women’s racing across the world. Ale Cipollini Bigla Pro Cycling Boels Dolmans Cycling Team Canyon//SRAM Racing CCC-Liv Drops Cycling FDJ Nouvelle Aquitaine-Futuroscope Mitchelton-SCOTT GreenEDGE Cycling Movistar Team Parkhotel Valkenburg Cycling Team Team Sunweb Team Tibco–Silicon Valley Bank Team VIRTU Cycling Trek-Segafredo Valcar-Cylance Cycling WNT-Rotor Pro Cycling There are five jerseys up for grabs; OVO Energy Green Jersey — race leader Breast Cancer Care Points Jersey Skoda Queen of the Mountains Jersey HSBC UK/British Cycling Best British Rider Jersey Eisberg Sprints Jersey The 2019 OVO Women’s Tour route There are six stages on this year’s Women’s Tour route, taking in parts of Oxfordshire, Suffolk and Carmarthenshire, and riders will cover nearly 790km — making this the longest edition of the Tour to date: Monday 10 June: Beccles to Stowmarket Tuesday 11 June: Kent Cyclopark Wednesday 12 June: Henley-on-Thames to Blenheim Palace Thursday 13 June: Warwick to Burton Dassett Friday 14 June: Llandrindod Wells to Builth Wells Saturday 15 June: Carmarthen to Pembrey Country Park OVO Women’s Tour stages Sweetspot How can I watch the OVO Women’s Tour in the UK? Highlights from each stage of the OVO Women’s Tour will be broadcast on ITV4 each evening following the day’s racing. This highlight programme will also be re-broadcast the following morning, and for UK residents will also be available on-demand on ITV Hub for 30 days. Stage 1: Monday 10 June 20.00 BST, repeated Tuesday 11 June 06.25 BST Stage 2: Tuesday 11 June 20.00 BST, repeated Wednesday 12 June 06.25 BST Stage 3: Wednesday 12 June 20.00 BST, repeated Thursday 13 June 06.25 BST Stage 4: Thursday 13 June 20.00 BST, repeated Friday 14 June 06.25 BST Stage 5: Friday 14 June 20.00 BST, repeated Saturday 15 June 06.25 BST Stage 6: Saturday 15 June 20.00 BST, repeated Sunday 16 June 06.10 BST Sadly, there’s no live coverage, but with more and more people watching, following the social media streams and commenting, it’s only a matter of time before this changes. How can I watch the OVO Women’s Tour in the US, Australia and the rest of the world? Various broadcasters, including Eurosport, will also be hosting the highlights programme, so international fans can keep abreast of the action. Eurosport – Europe, Asia and Oceania eurosport.com fuboTV – USA and Canada (online service) fubo.tv Flosports – USA and Canada (online service) flosports.tv SuperSport – sub-Saharan Africa supersport.com Sky New Zealand – sky.co.nz